Inspired by the recently published posthumous, long-lost memoir of the prolific Hollywood costume designer, Orry-Kelly, Australian director Gillian Armstrong (My Brilliant Career,” “Charlotte Grey”) sews together a historically informative and whimsical documentary in “Women He’s Undressed.”

The film follows the life of Australian-born Orry George Kelly, from his humble beginnings as an aspiring artist and failed bank clerk to the rise of his prolific career in costume design. Orry-Kelly dressed the biggest stars in 282 Hollywood films. The designer went on to become a three-time Academy Award winner for his ingenious work in “An American in Paris,” “Les Girls,” and “Some Like It Hot.”

The gowns that Orry-Kelly designed are so breathtakingly beautiful, it makes one want to absolutely bathe in them. More impressive than the glamour was his ability to structure clothes in a way that complimented even the most challenging figures. As costume historian Deborah Nadoolman Landis says, he was simply “a master of silhouette and nuance.” Kelly worked closely with the actors and created costumes that not only made them look their best, but also truly brought the character to life. Jane Fonda noted that Kelly “built clothes specifically for this character. For you.”

The film does not go without highlighting a fair share of scandal that followed this brilliant designer. Notorious for being outspoken, Kelly was unashamed to be himself and quite open about his sexuality in a time when homophobia ran rampant and being gay was not only taboo but also illegal. In addition, the film spends some time focusing on Kelly’s intimate relationship with his former “roommate” and aspiring actor Archibald Leach, who we later discover turns out to be leading man, Cary Grant.


Armstrong makes a bold choice in this documentary by combining a mixture of traditional talking head interviews and a series of highly stylized re-enactment scenes. This could be perceived as a distracting, campy misstep or as a unique and engaging way to enhance the subject matter. Personally, I would love to see those reenactments turned into a stage play.

Many of Orry-Kelly’s peers and clients are now deceased. However, Armstrong has tailored the film to a wonderful group of interviewees ranging from film historians (Leonard Maltin and David Chierichetti), designers (Ann Roth, Colleen Atwood, and Catherine Murray), and Hollywood royalty (including the scene-stealing Jane Fonda).

“Women He’s Undressed” is playful and thought-provoking, packed with historical tidbits. Armstrong expertly weaves together the life of the designer with the context of the Hollywood film industry spanning from the 1930s to the time of Orry-Kelly’s death in the early 1960s. Gillian Armstrong has created a film that is a must-see for fashionistas and film buffs alike.

“Women He’s Undressed” is not rated. 95 minutes. Now playing at the Arena Cinema in Los Angeles and will be released on DVD / VOD on Tuesday, August 9th.

Rebekah Roberts

Rebekah Roberts was born and raised in a sleepy Arkansas town surrounded by miles and miles of cotton. Her interest in the arts began at a very young age. Rebekah escaped to California at age 16. She went on to earn a BA in Theatre at Chapman University. When she is not acting, Rebekah enjoys long walks to the bank, Netflix binging, and obsessing over Dolly Parton or Beyonce.